Down the mines in Potosi for Christmas... well, almost!




We drove up to the Candelaria mine and were taken through the "mineral cleaning" section first, where the rocks that are brought up from the mines, are crushed and flushed through a number of different machines and systems to sift out the silver and ore minerals that will make or break the miners, depending on how much or little comes out.

The miners themselves were amazing, so incredibly grateful for the soft drinks and coca leaves we had brought, it was humbling as they rushed past us, pushing 2 ton trolleys of hand hammered rock to the easy job where those miners who had done their time and were a bit older, e.g. 40 yrs old, would shovel the rocks into large bags which were then lifted up and out of the mine on a mechanical hook. This was one of the few pieces of "technology" found in the mines.

There is a museum within the mine itself, that explains some of the history of mining in Bolivia, the life the miners have, the fact that whenever they have tried to band together as unions for better wages or conditions, they have been shot (yes shot and killed!) even up to the 1980`s this was happening! There is also a statue to the god, Tio, who the miners give thanks and gifts to, in the hope he will keep them safe in the mines. One quite telling comment was about whether Cerro Rico had been a blessing or a curse for Potosi, as the people of the city have never been the ones to benefit from the amazing riches of the mountain; legend has it that if you laid out all the silver brought out of the mines to date, it would be enought to build a bridge of silver from Potosi to Spain and back again. A more chilling note is that legend also says you could build two bridges of bones from the 8 million people who have died over the centuries working in the mines in Bolivia, and especially in Potosi!


So we potter around trying to find a bar, which we do duly come across.. hmnn it was a strange place, that looked like it hadnt been touched for about 50 years, but we sat and chatted for a while and downed the local Potosi cerveza!! Then it was off to the party, which turned out to be Oscar`s (another miner guide from earlier in the day!) graduation party from the local tourism school (alot of the miners work all day in the mines, then go to night school to try and learn alternate trades, tourism being a big one!) When we arrived and walked in, it was a bit like that scene from American Werewolf where everyone turns round and stares at you....you could feel everyone thinking "why are these gringos here"??? All the chairs were against the walls, the people attending sitting in their little family groups. Think school disco with older people! And lots and lots of Sprite bottles on the tables. Now as there was no bar, we thought this might be a non-alcoholic party, but no, the soft drinks were actually 96% alcohol with a little Sprite mixed in! So we popped out and picked up a few bottles of cerveza ourselves and then the party really started!
An interesting fact about Bolivian "bailar" (dancing). They for some reason, all dance in one line, men on one side, women on the other. When we asked the guys why this was, they just said, "thats just the way we do things". So Dominique and I decided we couldnt handle the line, and broke out of it with our respective partners, crazy right! There was a moment or two of "hmmmmn what are these gringos up to" then we managed to persuade a few others to join us in non-line dancing, from two lovely ladies in traditional dress to a few of Oscar`s graduating class mates and their partners! After that, we were the darlings of the evening, with boys vying to dance with us, ladies shouting "muy bailar, muy bailar", and giggling when we dragged them up to join in, it was amazing. We shared our beer, they shared their shots of god knows what proof alcohol but it would def put hairs on your chest... then we all danced in a circle, with everyone taking a shot in the middle. The indigenous ladies were shy at first then they were going at it full blast, making everyone put their felt hats on, when it was their turn to dance... one strange thing, there are a number of traditional dances in Bolivia. The most trad. would be the "cumbya" which i would call the shuffle. It is officially the most boring dance on earth, and i dont know why people bother dancing to it cos they seem so bored. Then there is the folk dancing, similar to that of Chile, called the "cueca" where you fling a hanky around as you dance with your partner (I kept being silly and pretending to blow my nose with mine,,, yes i know very classy!). We finished the evening off around 5am! What a great night, we were all exhausted as we had danced non-stop, but had made a bunch of new friends, met some of our miner friends families and made men who never dance, dance with us, and basically had yet another great experience with the warm and friendly folks of Bolivia! A brilliant night!
Christmas itself was a low key affair.. we had a great night out on Christmas Eve with two new friends, Anna from Sweden and Anna from Switzerland. I had llama for the first time and it was QUITE delicious i have to say! But Christmas Day was like any other day in Potosi it seemed, the shops and stalls were all open, people were going about their usual business, the only thing different i noticed were people everywhere carrying these big cakes all over the city.. must be a traditional thing! We had gone to the Red Cross Christmas morning (Anna from Sweden works for them in Sweden!) to help give out food to the poor, there were many people there, mainly the indigenous folks who originally had lived in the countryside... it was organized by the Red Cross youth, so quite impressive of them....
So onwards to Salar de Uyuni and the biggest salt flats in the world for our next exciting adventure! Feliz Navidad!
2 Comments:
Hi Stef,
Finn and I just finished reading about how you spent Christmas week, Finn was especially intrigurd about you eating Llamas!!! Also he liked the pictures of the soldiers and the info about the prison scary.
We were all sick for Christmas so a very uneventful time, saw nobody and Finn was sick again on New Years eve with the croup. So next year we're going to the sun for Christmas no more snow and cold. Have you got the runs yet!! You look different in the photos and it sounds like you are having such a blast. I can't wait to see all the photos when you get back.
Well take care and I hope you had a great new years eve wherever you where. We'll catch up soon
Love Orla & Finn
Dancing until 5 AM?
Hmmm...tell me again about those coca leaves.
PS: Where's my xmas gift?
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